People spend considerable time choosing a kurta and then reach for whatever bottom happens to be clean. This is backwards, because the bottom determines the proportion of the whole outfit, and proportion is what the eye actually reads.

There is one governing principle, and if you remember nothing else, remember this: volume goes on one half of the body, not both. A flared kurta wants a slim bottom. A straight kurta can carry a wide one. Volume on both halves produces a shapeless outfit almost every time.

Palazzo

Wide-legged, flowing from the waist or the knee, with substantial fabric and movement. Palazzos are comfortable, forgiving through the hip and thigh, and immediately elegant when they are the right length.

Pair with: short kurtas, straight kurtas, fitted tops and crop-style ethnic tops. The palazzo supplies the volume, so the top must not.

Avoid with: full Anarkalis and heavily flared kurtas. Two layers of sweep cancel each other out.

The critical detail: length. A palazzo must reach the floor, or come within a centimetre of it, when worn with the shoes you intend to wear. A palazzo hovering above the ankle looks like a mistake rather than a choice, and this single measurement is responsible for most disappointing palazzo purchases.

Cigarette pants

Narrow, straight-cut, usually ending at or just above the ankle. They are the most modern and the most practical bottom in ethnic wear, and they read as clean rather than traditional.

Pair with: almost anything, but especially Anarkalis, A-line kurtas and any silhouette with flare on top. The slim line underneath is what allows the volume above to be read correctly.

Best for: office wear, travel and everyday use. They are also the most flattering option for petite frames, because the unbroken narrow line from hip to ankle preserves visual height.

Churidar

Fitted through the length and deliberately cut long, so that the excess fabric gathers into horizontal folds at the ankle. Churidars are the most traditional bottom in the North Indian ethnic repertoire, and they are unmistakably formal.

Pair with: Anarkalis, long kurtas and any traditional occasion outfit. A churidar under a full Anarkali is the classic combination and remains the most reliably elegant pairing in ethnic wear.

Be aware: the gathered folds add visible bulk at the ankle. On very short legs this can shorten the line further, so keep the number of gathers modest.

Sharara and gharara

Both flare dramatically, the sharara from the waist and the gharara from the knee. Both are unmistakably festive and both are showpieces rather than everyday garments.

Pair with: short, fitted kurtas or crop tops only. The bottom is the entire outfit here, and the top exists to stay out of its way.

Best for: sangeets, mehendis, receptions and anywhere you want to be seen. They are not travel garments and they are not comfortable in a crowd.

Dhoti pants

Draped, gathered at the hip and tapering to a narrow ankle. They are the most contemporary and the most polarising option, and they demand a plain, fitted, unfussy top to work.

Pair with: short fitted kurtas and crop tops, in solid colours. A printed top with a draped bottom is usually too much information.

Be aware: the gathering at the hip adds width at exactly the point many people do not want it. Try before committing, or accept that this style suits a lean, straight frame more readily than a pear-shaped one.

Straight pants and trousers

The most understated choice, and the reason ethnic wear can go to an office. A well-cut straight trouser in a solid neutral under a printed kurta is professional, comfortable and requires no explanation.

Pair with: straight and A-line kurtas, in any print or solid.

Quick reference

• Anarkali: churidar or cigarette pants.
• Straight kurta: palazzo, trousers or cigarette pants.
• Short kurta or crop top: palazzo, sharara or dhoti pants.
• A-line kurta: cigarette pants or straight trousers.
• Office: straight trousers or cigarette pants, every time.

Get the bottom right and an ordinary kurta looks considered. Get it wrong and an expensive kurta looks like it was thrown on. The bottom is not the supporting act.

Related reading

• Petite, Tall or Plus: How to Pick a Kurta Length That Works for You Style Guides
• Diwali Dressing for the Whole Family: Five Days, One Wardrobe Plan Festive & Occasion
• Wedding-Guest Dressing: What to Wear to a Mehendi, Sangeet and Reception Festive & Occasion