When you buy ethnic wear online, the fabric name is often the only reliable information on the product page. The photograph shows colour and cut, the size chart shows measurements, but only the fabric tells you how the garment will actually behave when you wear it in June, wash it in a machine, or pack it into a suitcase.

Here is what each of the common fabrics genuinely offers, without the marketing language.

Rayon

Rayon is a manufactured fibre made from regenerated cellulose, usually derived from wood pulp. That places it between natural and synthetic: the raw material is plant-based, but the fibre is produced through a chemical process.

What it does well: rayon drapes exceptionally well for its price. It falls softly, holds printed colour brilliantly, and feels smooth against the skin. It is the reason a rayon Anarkali under two thousand rupees can look far more expensive than it is.

Where it falls short: rayon is weaker when wet, which is why it shrinks and loses shape if it is washed in hot water or spun aggressively. It also wrinkles readily. Treated correctly, a rayon kurta lasts for years. Thrown into a hot machine wash, it will not survive the season.

Best for: everyday ethnic wear, printed kurtas, Anarkali sets and anything where drape matters more than durability.

Cotton

The most breathable fabric in the category, and the only sensible choice for an Indian summer. Cotton absorbs moisture, allows air through, and stays comfortable in heat that would make synthetics unbearable.

Where it falls short: cotton creases visibly and wrinkles the moment you sit down. It also has a stiffer hand than rayon, which means it holds its own shape rather than draping fluidly. Pure cotton will shrink on its first wash unless it has been pre-shrunk.

Best for: daily wear, office wear, summer, and anyone who prioritises comfort over drape. Cotton blends with a small percentage of synthetic fibre reduce the creasing considerably and are worth seeking out.

Georgette

A lightweight, slightly crinkled fabric with a matte finish and a distinctive floating drape. Georgette moves beautifully, which is why it is used so heavily in dupattas, flared kurtas and evening wear.

What to know: georgette is usually semi-sheer, so almost anything made from it will require lining, and you should check the product page to confirm the lining is included. It is also slippery to handle and can snag on rough surfaces or jewellery.

Best for: festive and evening wear, dupattas, and any garment where movement is part of the appeal.

Chanderi

A traditional handloom fabric from Madhya Pradesh, historically woven from a silk warp and a cotton weft, which gives it a soft sheen combined with a light, airy body. Chanderi is one of the few fabrics that manages to look formal while remaining genuinely comfortable in heat.

What to know: genuine Chanderi is delicate and generally requires dry cleaning. It is also priced accordingly. Much of what is sold as Chanderi is a Chanderi-style powerloom fabric, which is not a fraud in itself but is a different product; look for weight, hand-feel and price as your indicators.

Best for: occasion wear, festive daywear, and anyone who wants craftsmanship rather than embellishment.

Silk and art silk

Silk is the traditional luxury fibre: strong, lustrous, warm in winter and surprisingly cool in summer. It is also expensive and demanding to care for. Art silk, or artificial silk, is typically a viscose or polyester fabric engineered to imitate the sheen. It photographs beautifully, costs a fraction as much, and does not breathe nearly as well.

Neither is the wrong choice. What matters is knowing which one you are buying, so that your expectations of feel, durability and price are correctly set.

Choosing quickly

• For summer comfort: cotton, or a cotton blend.
• For drape at a sensible price: rayon.
• For evening and festive movement: georgette.
• For understated craft: Chanderi.
• For occasion luxury: silk, if you are prepared to care for it.

One habit will improve every online purchase you make: read the fabric line before you look at the price. The fabric determines whether the garment will suit the life you intend to give it, and no discount can compensate for a fabric that is wrong for the occasion.

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