A dupatta is a rectangle of fabric, typically two to two and a half metres long, and how you arrange it changes the entire character of an outfit more than any other single decision you make while dressing.

Most people learn one drape and use it for life. Here are eight, with the situations each one is actually suited to.

1. The classic single-shoulder drape

The most common and the most versatile. The dupatta is pleated lengthways and laid over the left shoulder, with the pleats falling down the back and the remaining length hanging in front.

It works with nearly every silhouette, it leaves both hands free, and it creates a clean vertical line down one side of the body which is quietly slimming. If you learn only one drape, learn to pleat this one neatly, because unpleated fabric bunched at the shoulder is what separates a considered look from a careless one.

2. The double-shoulder or symmetrical drape

Both ends thrown back over both shoulders, with the centre of the dupatta falling across the front of the body. It reads as more traditional and more formal, and it is the natural choice for a temple visit, a wedding ceremony or any occasion where modesty and tradition are the register.

It also covers the chest and the upper arms fully, which makes it the practical choice when you want that coverage.

3. The front-pallu drape

Pleated and pinned at the shoulder with the decorated end brought forward across the chest, the way a saree pallu is worn in some regional styles. Use this when the dupatta itself is the most beautiful part of the outfit and you want it visible from the front rather than trailing behind you.

4. The cape drape

The dupatta is worn across the back with the two ends falling forward over both shoulders, hanging loose like a cape and left entirely unpinned in front. It is modern, relaxed and slightly dramatic, and it works especially well with straight kurtas, sharara sets and Indo-western outfits.

It is also the easiest drape to manage while moving, which makes it a good choice for a long evening.

5. The belted drape

Any drape, secured at the waist with a belt or a decorative kamarbandh. This does two things at once: it holds the dupatta permanently in place, and it defines the waist on a silhouette that otherwise has none.

It is the single most useful trick for anyone wearing a straight or A-line kurta who wants shape without alteration, and it is particularly effective on rectangular and apple frames.

6. The seedha pallu, or reverse drape

The dupatta comes over the right shoulder rather than the left and falls across the front of the body. It is common in parts of Gujarat and Rajasthan, it displays the decorated end prominently across the chest, and it looks distinctly different from the standard drape without being unfamiliar.

7. The stole or scarf drape

Folded lengthways into a narrow band and simply laid around the neck, both ends hanging in front. This is the most casual arrangement of all, and it is what makes a dupatta wearable with jeans, with a plain kurta on a workday, or on any occasion where a full drape would be too much.

8. The wrist drape

The dupatta is draped over one shoulder and the far end is looped once around the opposite forearm. It is elegant, it photographs beautifully, and it holds the fabric under control.

Its limitation is obvious: one arm is committed. It is a drape for standing, greeting and being photographed, not for eating or dancing.

Practical matters that determine whether a drape works

• Pin it. Almost every drape above depends on a discreet safety pin or a decorative brooch at the shoulder. Without one, the fabric will slide and you will spend the evening adjusting it.
• Match the fabric to the drape. Heavy silk and brocade hold structured, pleated drapes well but will not float. Chiffon, georgette and net float beautifully and will not hold a pleat without pinning.
• Consider what you will be doing. A wrist drape at a dinner is impractical. A cape drape at a garba will end up on the floor. Choose for the evening, not just for the photograph.
• Iron it. A creased dupatta undermines an otherwise perfect outfit, and it is the detail that reads most clearly in photographs.

Eight drapes, one piece of fabric, and no additional purchase required. This is the highest-return skill in ethnic dressing.

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